March 30, 2005 Good to Be the King Barbecue is more posh than ever. You can sit down in a temperature controlled restaurant like Zeke's Smokehouse, order a $6 glass of wine and suck your fingers clean among the warm wood tones and color coordinated linens. But is that really barbecue? Consider barbecue's other side. The side where the centerpiece of the decor is three or four smokers the width of a pick-up's rear bumper pumping out enough aroma to curl your nose hairs. Picnic tables. Red checkered table cloths (sometimes). And piles upon piles of meaty scrumptious ribs. In L.A., the king of this form of barbecue is called, quite rightfully, BBQ King. Only a bone's throw west of downtown, BBQ King -- The Original Texas Barbecue King if you want to be official about it -- is not exactly a restaurant, it's more of a take-out window. But more than that, it's a socioeconomic melting pot, where suited businessmen dine side-by-side with local homies. A dinner at BBQ King consists of a princely portion of ribs, a squishy fresh roll and two sides. If you order fries, ask for extra BBQ sauce for dipping. You'll find it hard ever to go back to ketchup. Connoisseurs of baked beans will find theirs sweet, savory and seductive. And if your stomach has a vacancy left, the sweet potato pie would like to check in. Let it. A Southern treat like that is rare in these parts. The hard part is saving room. Finishing a $12 baby back ribs dinner is an accomplishment for one but two light eaters would find it comfortable. Come at lunch time and the same meal costs $9. Most of the seating is outdoors, street-side, though there's also an open room in the back where you can catch the game on a massive TV. It may not look like a palace but enjoy a meal here and you'll see why locals consider BBQ King rib royalty. The Original Texas Barbecue King is located at 867 West Sunset Blvd., at the corner of Sunset and Figueroa. Call 213.437.0885 for more information.